December 23, 2003
Finally got in the Spanish rhythm today. Got up at nine, had breakfast. Went out looking at Nerja (pronounced Neer-ha) at about 11. Bone white buildings along the coast, very touristy. Many Brits and Germans here.

Saw a restaurant advertising for Boxing Day, which I believe is an English holiday. Tommy asked me about it and I said we'd find out, so we are in a Tobac-pharmacia store and the two people in front of us in line are talking the King's English and I say, "What the heck is Boxing Day?" And they didn't know. Claimed it was boxing as in fighting, but I don't think so.

I hate it when the Brits act like distant cousins who think we are somehow inbred hillbillies who don't know Jack. Of course they are about half right but I still don't like it.

Came back at two, had lunch (cerveza and gazpacho soup, 8 Euros), then took a nap! Got up at five, took a shower, went out shopping and then met the family for dinner at 7:30. Had Mexican food at Cielito Lindo. Quite a treat (first Mexican food on the trip) and it made me appreciate the women of Mexico even more for what they created. They didn't get it from Spain. The beauty of tacos, enchiladas, refried beans, tortillas, menudo, posole, salsa, it's all theirs and I thank them for it.

One thing you will never see in Spain is a waitress walking through the dining room with a pot of coffee and saying, "Want a refill Hon?" That is totally an American deal. Here you order cafe con leche and they make a small cup and you drink it and if you want more you have to order another cup. There is no refills of any kind. Same for coke or soft drinks. You get the 8 oz. bottle and when it's gone you are done.

And the darn cups are so small you can't get your finger in the hole! It's so dainty, like squeezing a mosquito's head and trying not to squish the brains out. Really makes me appreciate the big, ol' fat American coffee mug. I miss it terribly.

The other interesting thing is they don't want tips. Or that is the word from the guide books and my son. Feels weird but supposedly no one tips here. I still can't quite pull it off and end up leaving change on the table just to be safe.

We leave for Granada tomorrow.

"It's not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog." -Old Vaquero Saying