December 21, 2006
Tomas and I rented Vespa motorscooters today in downtown Creel, and scooted out across the Tarahamara Indian country. Of course I had on my penis secret pack and it worked like a charm. Before we left, I heeded the warnings of my compadres back in the states about bandidos in the Sierra Madres, so I had Kathy buy me a special waistband pouch shaped like the Bell family name in which I could store my passport, driver´s license and ten $100 crisp bills. My regular wallet contains about $500 pesos at any given time and is only for muggers, buggers and bees. I have figured, so far successfully, that any Mexican bandit worth his salt is not going to want to frisk me in that spot.

So far so good. The Vespa tour was exhilirating, as we visited the Valley of the Hongas (mushrooms, rocks shaped like big, fat mushrooms). We had to wear matching blue helmets so we looked rather gay, but I was counting on that factor as well with the penis pouch.

Two days ago at Cerocahui, we rented horses and I haven't been on a horse since 1995. We visited a distant waterfall up in the mountains (Barranca del Cobre) and it was a hoot to be horseback on great Spanish ponies, with Mexican saddles and long tapaderos (stirrup guards with long pointed corners).

The food we have been having is just the best. On the Copper Canyon train we stopped in a small town, and ran up a hill to the town, situated on a small bluff. In a small hotel, with a dog in the courtyard, we walked in and said, "We've got 30 minutes before the train pulls out, what have you got?" This was in Spanish, of course, with Deena talking, and the next thing you know we are eating Chile Colorado with homemade tortillas. Just the best. We actually ate at a taco stand in El Fuerte and I had the best tacos I've ever had for one buck. Four of us ate for $11! I could grab off fresh radishes off the bunch, and eat as many as I wanted (4), and everything was so fresh and perfect. Now I know why when you ask a Mexican if he likes the tacos at your favorite restaurant he invariably says, "They are very good, but. . ."

Last night at the Margarita Hotel in Creel, they served us homemade chile rellenos and they were the best I´ve ever had. Truly exceptional.

Our only complaint is they all drink instant coffee! Even the best restaurants, bring out the Nestles jar with hot water. Today we finally found a cafe that serves Comate Mexican brewed coffee and it too was great, because we were so tired of instant.

Tomorrow we head for Chihuahua.

"Hunger makes the best sauce."
-Old Vaquero Saying